8a pickup for Kbal Spean and Banteay Srei - about 50km from Siem Reap so I had a tuk tuk (motorcycle taxi) and guide.
Kbal Spean is the site of jungle riverbed carvings depicting Shiva, Vishnu, Brahma and "1000 lingas", phallic fertility symbols. It's a 2km climb up through the jungle over some pretty hefty boulders in spots. I was glad to have a guide and even gladder that I could keep up with him. I think he was surprised that the old white chick didn't need a break. It was a hot climb even though mostly in the shade. Oddly, there were no bugs here or any other site so far. My guide Souka was wearing a long sleeved shirt over a short sleeved t-shirt. He didn't break a sweat. Most of the locals are bundled up with long sleeves, long pants and scarves. Partly to keep the sun off but I wonder if they actually feel a chill now in their cold season.
Only licenced guides are allowed on the Angkor related sites. They have to study fulltime for 4-6 months, write exams and then pay for their licence. The orphanage guy the other day could have been fined if he had been caught.
After another tuk-tuk driver lunch it was off to Banteay Srei or, City of Women. Depending on who you beleive the name is due to the delicately scarved embellishment or the prevalance of apsara (celestial dancers) Tiny site like choclates in a box with gorgeous carvings over every surface. Originally it was a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva.
Then, back to town - about 100km round trio in a bumpy but gratefully breezy tuk-tuk. Nice to see some more rural life. Cambodia is a poor country but much moremodernized than Myanmar. Rice flourishes here - Soka tells me that they have 2 varieties one of which matures in as little as 110 days. There is some mechanization but the majority of labour is by hand or beast. There is no real dairy industry here as the land is better used for rice. All the cows I've been seeing are beasts of burden.
A number of road side stalls have been fashioned earth ovens to boil down palm sugar. A wet mound about 3 foot in diameter by 2 feet high s left to dry with a hole in the top and hole in the side. Deep pans of palm syrup bubble away over a wood fire.
Had a wander through Old Market after being dropped off at the tour comapny's office. Mostly touristy things on the edges and local stuffin the middle which meant fish next to t-shirts. (Ick.)
It was searing walking back to my modest little guest house. It's a great little place. They have 8 rooms but there is a roof top terrace with sunset views + a lounge lobby. Great service. The cute little day guy- looks about 12 but may be my age - jumps up and gets me a cold cloth from the fridge when I come in. The have reasonbly priced cold drinks and ice cream at the ready. Laundry is $1.50 a kilogram. Btw USD are used almost excusively here. They will order in food for you and haul it up to the roof top terrace if you want.I have a/c, a fan and satelite TV - breakfast is included. A great bargain at $16/night.
Had some time on my hand so poked around the artisan workshops in the next block. After visiting their cafe, my new favorite ice cream is carmel cashew nut from The Blue Pumpkin. Super yum.
Just finished a "happy" pizza at the Happy Herb Pizzaria. They sprinkle a little marijuana on top. Apparently it's used in small quantities for seasoning here by the country folk. It's a great business ploy to give your customers something that gives them the munchies. I didn't get an extra happy one as I'm biking tonight. There is a free cello concert to fund raise for childrens' hospitals.
Today's path: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/246236054
Kbal Spean is the site of jungle riverbed carvings depicting Shiva, Vishnu, Brahma and "1000 lingas", phallic fertility symbols. It's a 2km climb up through the jungle over some pretty hefty boulders in spots. I was glad to have a guide and even gladder that I could keep up with him. I think he was surprised that the old white chick didn't need a break. It was a hot climb even though mostly in the shade. Oddly, there were no bugs here or any other site so far. My guide Souka was wearing a long sleeved shirt over a short sleeved t-shirt. He didn't break a sweat. Most of the locals are bundled up with long sleeves, long pants and scarves. Partly to keep the sun off but I wonder if they actually feel a chill now in their cold season.
Only licenced guides are allowed on the Angkor related sites. They have to study fulltime for 4-6 months, write exams and then pay for their licence. The orphanage guy the other day could have been fined if he had been caught.
After another tuk-tuk driver lunch it was off to Banteay Srei or, City of Women. Depending on who you beleive the name is due to the delicately scarved embellishment or the prevalance of apsara (celestial dancers) Tiny site like choclates in a box with gorgeous carvings over every surface. Originally it was a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva.
Then, back to town - about 100km round trio in a bumpy but gratefully breezy tuk-tuk. Nice to see some more rural life. Cambodia is a poor country but much moremodernized than Myanmar. Rice flourishes here - Soka tells me that they have 2 varieties one of which matures in as little as 110 days. There is some mechanization but the majority of labour is by hand or beast. There is no real dairy industry here as the land is better used for rice. All the cows I've been seeing are beasts of burden.
A number of road side stalls have been fashioned earth ovens to boil down palm sugar. A wet mound about 3 foot in diameter by 2 feet high s left to dry with a hole in the top and hole in the side. Deep pans of palm syrup bubble away over a wood fire.
Had a wander through Old Market after being dropped off at the tour comapny's office. Mostly touristy things on the edges and local stuffin the middle which meant fish next to t-shirts. (Ick.)
It was searing walking back to my modest little guest house. It's a great little place. They have 8 rooms but there is a roof top terrace with sunset views + a lounge lobby. Great service. The cute little day guy- looks about 12 but may be my age - jumps up and gets me a cold cloth from the fridge when I come in. The have reasonbly priced cold drinks and ice cream at the ready. Laundry is $1.50 a kilogram. Btw USD are used almost excusively here. They will order in food for you and haul it up to the roof top terrace if you want.I have a/c, a fan and satelite TV - breakfast is included. A great bargain at $16/night.
Had some time on my hand so poked around the artisan workshops in the next block. After visiting their cafe, my new favorite ice cream is carmel cashew nut from The Blue Pumpkin. Super yum.
Just finished a "happy" pizza at the Happy Herb Pizzaria. They sprinkle a little marijuana on top. Apparently it's used in small quantities for seasoning here by the country folk. It's a great business ploy to give your customers something that gives them the munchies. I didn't get an extra happy one as I'm biking tonight. There is a free cello concert to fund raise for childrens' hospitals.
Today's path: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/246236054
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