Monday, December 3, 2012

Odds and End

I'm knew I was tired when I sarcastically asked the security guard in Dubai if he wanted me to take off my pants off after he made me go through the metal detector for the 4th time. Fortunately he merely turned fifty shades of red and pointed out that I hadn't emptied all of the many pockets on the leg of my pants. I left Siem Reap with a head cold on the 1st and decided to crash at the transit hotel at the Bangkok airport instead of going into town for my 15 hour layover. It was 7 hours to Dubai, a 4 hour stop over and now I'm a few hours into a 14 hour flight. This is one of the longest non-stop flights that you can take to/from Canada. Toronto to Hong Kong is the longest at 15 hours 25 minutes. Also didn't pack enough decongestant on my carry-on bag so I can't sleep. This a round about way of saying that I won't be in the office till Wednesday.

This is how you make a left hand turn in Siem Reap: just turn left into the oncoming lane. Bikes will tend to move to the curb and vehicles to the middle of the road. Merge on the left side of the lane going in your direction when the oncoming traffic clears. The speed limit is 30km/hr in town. People do adhere to it so this method of turning left seems to work. BTW when no one was around one day except for a cop, I pedalled like mad and broke the speed limit to see if I would get a ticket. The cop just smiled and waved.

I realized that  I didn't explain what thanaka was - the women in Burma apply a pattern of paste made from ground tree bark to their cheeks to act as a sunscreen. It's sometimes a fashion statement and formed in leaf patterns or finished a with stylish flourish. For others it's purely utilitarian and they look they have just been dunked in  a bucket of the stuff. Children and some country menfolk also use it. Urban guys, not so much.

Early in my stay in Cambodia I realised that I got way better service when I used both hands to give money etc. to others and to perform sampeah (press your hands together and bow your head) in thanks or in greeting.

In both Cambodia and to some extent now Burma, they are many people who don't have running water or flush toilets but do have cell phones. My Prek Toal guide was astounded that I didn't own one. What an oddity I was, flying halfway around the world to ride a lowly bicycle while phone less.

At lunch today there was a new graphic on the in-flight information screen. It was a plan view of the plane framed inside a round compass with an arrow pointing to a graphic of the Kaaba in Mecca. I guess this is so Muslims know which direction to focus the mind relative to the direction of the plane when they pray. I don't think there is a prayer room on board but goodness knows that there is room for one. I'm on the super jumbo jet again. They had three gangways set up to load the thing today.

I was keeping an eye on our route to see how wide a berth we were giving Israel - turns out the short line between DXB-YYZ is across Iran and then eastern Turkey. Nowhere near the mess. Oh. and I did get my box of chocolate covered dates in the Dome of the Rock box. Meral, guess what you are getting!

I found Burma fascinating and was very glad I went but, would I recommend it to others? I definitely wouldn't recommend doing a package tour like mine - they pack way to much into too little time. Buddhists may enjoy visiting but those higher up on the spiritual scale might find the glitziness very un-Buddhist-like. Architects, archaeologists, artists for sure but give it plenty of time. Adventurers may find it more tedious than adventurous and those who demand creature comforts, give it another 10 years.

Cambodia has something for everyone. I highly recommend going. It's not a particularly accessible country - surprising given the number of landmine survivors - but there are a lot of helping hands.

A few people have asked where my next big trip will be. I know where Sherree I will be heading. Apart from that I've been thinking I would like to go scuba diving in a kelp forest. It would be as close as you can get to the sensation of flying and I do think that flying is amazing.

Saturday, December 1, 2012

Raffles

Today was a stellar gastronomic day. I splurged on a cooking class at the swankiest hotel in town, Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor. This hotel was originally set up in 1932 to house the first wave of Angkor visitors. It was picked up by the Raffles, now Fairmont Raffles chain in the 90's. (Raffles being the hotel in Singapore where the sling was invented.) Rooms in low season start at $200/night (i think my guest house worked out to $13/night) so a stay was out of the question. At $85 the cooking class was an expensive "tour" for Siem Reap but it turned out to be the best bargain of my trip.

I was the only one signed up for today's class. The executive sous-chef Ngin Chantha started me off with a tour of the local wholesale market - this was his day off but he insisted on coming in. We drove there in an air con chauffeured van and by chauffeur I mean uniform, white gloves and cap. Phsar Leu Thom Thmey  is the market that the local neighbourhood grocers buy from - I'm fairly sure I was the only tourist there today. At 10:30a it was winding down for the day but still lively. Chantha said that at 5a it's hard to walk through the crowds but now the occasional scooter was driving by. There were household goods and tailors on the edges with produce on one side and fish on the other. The fish was so fresh it didn't smell so fishy.
Saw a few old favorites and a number of new items.


Chantha and turmeric root

Chilies and green beans

Fish cakes
 
Lotus root

Sugar cane

Back at the hotel they had set up the class area in the Grand Dining Room which only opens for dinner.



Junior sous-chef Ming Tyn took over. He is a Phnom Penh native and very passionate about his country's cooking. He was thrilled to fill me in on the history of cooking in Cambodia and how India and China influenced it. The actual cooking part was more demonstration rather than hands on. All the prep was was already done so I was just combining ingredients and cooking them. It was a good compliment to my previous course where we were slicing, dicing and pounding all the ingredients.



Dishes covered were: mango salad, sour fish soup, khmer chicken curry, beef lok lak, pumpkin custard. Oh, I also got to keep my apron and funny chef hat. A small hard covered cookbook was included which I got Ming to sign. I had a good taste of all the dishes and a full slice of the desert and then was seated in the Cafe d'Angkor with a glass of wine to have the full 5 course meal. Starting off with fresh out of the oven bread and finishing with quite decent coffee and cookies.


Mango prawn salad

Sour fish soup

Khmer chicken curry

Pumpkin custard



I was quite pleasantly stuffed and had no need for dinner!

Nosed around the main floor after lunch - best washroom on the trip was here for sure. Saw that the prix fixe dinner was only 4 courses - I had made 5 dishes - for $80 bucks and wine pairings were an extra $45.

Then I hopped into a tuk tuk - a block away so the driver wouldn't jack up the price if he saw me come out of the chi-chi hotel - and headed out to Angkor for a last visit. It was lovely. Beautiful blue sky with fluffy clouds and relatively few people. There was no wait for the stairs up to the third level terrace and no time limit so I spent about an hour and a half poking around and enjoying the views from the top. By the time I left the sunset bus tours had arrived and the lineup wound half way around the second level terrace. This left the first level bas relief galleries almost empty so had an unobstructed wander about.

What a fabulous end to a fabulous trip!